Beyond the answer is always Miata...

"Jimmy Tango" (jimcalliu) 12/26/2016 at 19:01 • Filed to: None

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My follow up question is, which Miata?

You see, I used to be able to drive a stick but that was 15 years ago. And I hope to pick it up while I drive for fun. As I start saving for fun stuff, I’d like to have a particular goal. Therefore, I’d like to ask Oppositelock this question...

What year/model Miata should I get?

Preferably lower than 5k. But if there is a solid reason why more expensive model is better, I’d give it consideration.

S65 > Jimmy Tango 12/26/2016 at 19:04

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I’d say an NA, but which NA?

bob and john > Jimmy Tango 12/26/2016 at 19:05

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I think the newest NB that you can afford. Its probably the nicest looking and the NC was a little on the fat side.

awmaster10 > Jimmy Tango 12/26/2016 at 19:06

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Obviously mazdaspeed miata

Dr. Zoidberg - RIP Oppo > Jimmy Tango 12/26/2016 at 19:06

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NA

Chuck 2(O=[][]=O)2 > Jimmy Tango 12/26/2016 at 19:08

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If you’re looking for a cheap Miata, go for a solid NB, but I really really enjoy the new ND.

Jimmy Tango > awmaster10 12/26/2016 at 19:09

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Nice. Looks like 6.5k~10k. Hopefully by the time I have the garage space, it’s under 5k.

bhtooefr > Jimmy Tango 12/26/2016 at 19:10

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NA or NB.

If you’re in an area that gets lots of rain, be wary of NBs and their front crash structures, as there’s design flaws with them.

You could probably get a $5k NC, but I wouldn’t.

Jimmy Tango > S65 12/26/2016 at 19:11

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hmm, I likie. we are getting specific.

I have no experience so this is purely out of observation. I like hard top if I have a choice.

awmaster10 > Jimmy Tango 12/26/2016 at 19:11

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They have held their value pretty well, but I found one for $5.5k near me with normal mileage. I actually thought they ran quite a bit more, 6.5-10k like you said. Not a clean example though.

daender > bob and john 12/26/2016 at 19:11

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Don’t go for the ‘03-’05 NB2s unless you want to swap the less-reliable Tochigi Fuji Super LSD out for a Torsen once the Fuji starts shearing clutch tabs.

The rate of occurrence is about 0.667 Miata.net members per month.

comes over to help work on your car and only drinks beer > bob and john 12/26/2016 at 19:14

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That’ll be enough body shaming, mister...we love all shapes in Oppo.

;-)

dogisbadob > Jimmy Tango 12/26/2016 at 19:18

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any Miata! The best condition one you can get in your budget :)

daender > Jimmy Tango 12/26/2016 at 19:18

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You can start finding half-decent NB2 (‘01-’05) Miatas in that price range as they’ve depreciated enough.

Here’s some partially-biased (‘02 owner here) thoughts

-The ‘03-’05 Miatas have two major mechanical differences over the ‘01-’02 models: a clutch-type viscous limited slip over the old and reliable Torsen, and the larger “sport” brakes and chassis bracing only found on higher-spec ‘01-’02 cars were now standard.

The VLSD diffs have a rare bad habit of shearing the tabs off of the clutches. The sport brakes are generally regarded as overkill for a stock Miata but they do great at managing heat under heavy use. The larger brakes prevent you from using 14" wheels and some 15" wheels (Enkei Rpf1) may not clear them without using a spacer.

-I regard the ‘02 as the best all-around model year since it’s the last year of the Torsen (except in Mazdaspeeds) and you can find a LS (tan leather interior, cruise, LSD, sport brakes, additional chassis bracing, and 16" wheels) relatively easy.

Jimmy Tango > Chuck 2(O=[][]=O)2 12/26/2016 at 19:19

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yeah I thought about it. I could see if there are bunch of NDs rolling off lease (I don’t know how many lease, but that residual number is brutal) and 12k ND become attainable in 3 years. might have to pull a loan for it, but if it doesn’t dip in value for more than 50% for another 3 years, should be a decent ride for $150 a month ;)

Jimmy Tango > daender 12/26/2016 at 19:19

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good intel, thank you!

Jimmy Tango > daender 12/26/2016 at 19:21

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thanks for sharing! not intend to track or anything, but mountain road would be fun.

Bytemite > Jimmy Tango 12/26/2016 at 19:22

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You need to go with the 1.6 NA. Original and most light and most fun. NB and NC got fatter and didn’t offer anything more than what an NA can give you for smiles per mile.

Scary__goongala! > Jimmy Tango 12/26/2016 at 19:26

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Get a good NB as others have mentioned. I love my 94 M-edition, but NA prices have inflated.

daender > Jimmy Tango 12/26/2016 at 19:31

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I would certainly lean toward a healthy NB1 or NB2. You don’t necessary have to hunt down a tan interior (NB1 and NB2; dead giveaway of a LSD provided it’s a manual) or sport-package (NB1-only). You could always opt to swap a Torsen into a base model NB Miata. That said, some options you want to get are AC, PS (non-PS rack’s ratio is garbage), and cruise control (so nice to have). I would avoid the 6-speeds as the gear ratios are too close to each other that you’ll find yourself shifting constantly as you wind it out. AVOID A CALIFORNIA-SPEC NB1 IF POSSIBLE: they have a complicated emissions sensor in the exhaust header that’s known to go out and be quite expensive to repair. One easy way to tell a CA-spec car is the yellow rubber-covered metal dipstick versus the frail yellow plastic dip stick found everywhere else.

The NB2 is an all-around improvement over the NB1 but the NB1 is a lighter chassis to start out with and the engine does better on the top-end than the NB2's VVT motor. Also, the NB1 motor takes regular octane gas whereas the NB2 prefers to run on premium for best gas economy and performance.

AestheticsInMotion > Jimmy Tango 12/26/2016 at 21:03

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Skip the NC and if you choose the NA make sure to get the 1.8 engine.

Jimmy Tango > Scary__goongala! 12/26/2016 at 21:16

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I think the condition and availability will end up trumping the other aspect, as most NA will be 20 years car and even NB.1 will be by the time I pull trigger. What would you say should be a fair price for NA?

Jimmy Tango > Bytemite 12/26/2016 at 21:18

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These are very truthful insights, as you are the second one say this to me. The first one is my realtor, who have raced spec miata for more than 2 decades.

He is also why I look at Miata as a fun car.

Jimmy Tango > daender 12/26/2016 at 21:20

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Love it! thanks so much for the detail information.

Bytemite > Jimmy Tango 12/26/2016 at 21:24

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All you need is 3 grand to get a reliable NA.

After driving around in a 2,100 lb, cable throttle, hydraulic steering, rod shifting, no-ABS braking, lightweight flywheel car, there’s no going back to lusting after the performance cars still stuck in the horsepower war and the other meaningless spec-sheet measurement. Only way to go from there is Lotus, or maybe S2000.

Jordan and the Slowrunner, Boomer Intensifies > Jimmy Tango 12/26/2016 at 22:26

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The 1.6 is dogshit, if you can afford a 1.8 NA, do that. The slight weight difference goes into chassis stiffening the car desperately needed, a more reliable engine, and a MUCH improved Torsen style LSD. This is the first time I’ve ever heard someone say go for the NA6. When I was looking at Miatas a while back, literally everyone with insight told me to spend a bit more, buy a later NA.

Jordan and the Slowrunner, Boomer Intensifies > S65 12/26/2016 at 22:30

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NA8. The NA8 has all the mods the NA6 needs to not frame flex.

Scary__goongala! > Jimmy Tango 12/26/2016 at 22:37

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Hard to say. I’ve seen NAs for $7k+ since the owner thinks low mileage and stock makes it extra valuable. You can buy way more car than a Miata for that money. $3500 should be able to get you a good example but I’m not sure what peeps have been asking lately. Haven’t searched Craigslist out of curiosity for a while.

Decay buys too many beaters > Jimmy Tango 12/26/2016 at 23:01

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The answer is $200 beater NA 1.6 with LSD and power steering bypassed.

If you can get a free turbo kit randomly from a relative that’s a plus too.

Jimmy Tango > Scary__goongala! 12/27/2016 at 00:34

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Yeah I see what you are saying. NA in my area are looking at 2k~5k now. TBH none of them look great by any stretch. Fortunately I am not in pressure to buy. I did figure Winter to be a good time to buy though, maybe next year.

Jimmy Tango > Decay buys too many beaters 12/27/2016 at 00:35

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hahaha I need better relatives then. Almost none of my relative talk cars to me except my little brother. But he is more about bling than driving.

ateamfan42 > daender 12/27/2016 at 08:51

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The ‘03-’05 Miatas have two major mechanical differences over the ‘01-’02 models: a clutch-type viscous limited slip over the old and reliable Torsen,

The NB2 models do not have the VLSD-- that’s what the early NA models had (as an option). The NB2 models (optionally) had the Tochigi Fuji Super LSD, which shares many characteristics with the Torsen, but are reputed to be a bit less durable in higher power applications.

ateamfan42 > Jimmy Tango 12/27/2016 at 08:54

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not intend to track or anything, but mountain road would be fun.

Information like this is helpful in choosing what car to get. The early NA models are the best bet if minimum weight is the goal. For a bit more of a grand touring application, then the NB2 might be preferrable for the nicer comforts. The LS and SE models have leather and power windows, and generally include A/C and cloth tops.

Bytemite > Jordan and the Slowrunner, Boomer Intensifies 12/27/2016 at 12:07

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It’s not shit though. There’s no price difference really between the two and they don’t have LSD, that’s the special M edition. I never heard of the 1.8 being more reliable? And chassis stiffening was never needed for it to be a fun weekend car. The NA6 has better interior, less safety bloat, a more rev-happy engine, and after drivetrain loss, it makes like 7 less hp.

Jordan and the Slowrunner, Boomer Intensifies > Bytemite 12/27/2016 at 12:11

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Look up “short nose crank”.

Bytemite > Jordan and the Slowrunner, Boomer Intensifies 12/27/2016 at 12:16

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I already know about it. It’s not an issue. With whatever car you own, there will always be something or several things the owners club finds. Any car.

It doesn’t mean every single NA6 out there is broken, it just makes it seem like it if you read the forums where the problem is posted so that the others can find a fix for it, which they did. It was more down to mechanics not knowing how to service the timing belt than anything really.

Decay buys too many beaters > Jimmy Tango 12/27/2016 at 12:33

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My whole mother’s side are total grarheads and all kinds of weird stuff too. Like one of them built a period correct 1930s sleeper. It’s a Model T with a Model B flathead 4 (so 20hp to 50hp)

Frank Grimes > Jimmy Tango 12/27/2016 at 13:00

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96 M-EDITION

points

best paint

leather tan interior tan top

headrest speakers

nardi shift knob

torsion diff

1.8 liter engine

abs air con

all the chassis updates

stainless scuff plates

handsome 5 spoke enkei wheels.